Micro Mesh Gutter guard Leaffilter – The truth about gutter guards!

Is it true what they say? That I will never have to clean my gutters. Micro mesh gutter guards, like Leaffilter or any on the many types. Find out the truth approximately gutter guards. Over the years we have tested almost every gutter guard on the market. See the conclusion Continue reading “Micro Mesh Gutter guard Leaffilter – The truth approximately gutter guards!”

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Removing Ice Dams: The Basics

 What is an ice dam?

Short answer: An ice dam is the ridge of ice that forms at the edge of a roof which prevents melting snow from draining as it should. The water that backs up behind the ice dam can leak into the home & cause damage to walls, floors, ceilings, insulation, & other areas. See a basic illustration of an ice dam below. Large ice damSmall ice dam.

Where do ice dams happen: Most ice dams occur on the lowest edge of your roof as described above. We frequently find them in other locations, however. Click here to see a drawing of usual ice dam locations. Study this diagram closely as it is frequently the case that ice dams can not be identified from the ground.

Anatomy of an Ice Dam

What causes ice dams?

Short answer: Roof ice & ice dams result from the escape of heat into the attic or roof space.  This heat builds up & eventually melts snow on the roof, which, as described above runs to the cold edge of the roof & forms an ice dam.  Factors such as ventilation, insulation, solar orientation, tree coverage, home architecture, snow cover & weather conditions all interact to determine ice dam activity on every home.  Because no two houses are the same, it is usual to have neighboring homes on two ends of the ice dam spectrum; one may have major leaking, while the other is virtually unaffected.

Watch this short video on What is an Ice Dam & Ice Dam Prevention.

Tips on preventing damage: Preventing damage from an ice dam is pretty straight forward. It’s all approximately being proactive. When you think you may have a problem, it’s time to call The Ice Dam Company. Don’t wait until ice dams are on the news or in the Star Tribune. If you do, you will have to wait in line to obtain your ice dam removed, which can sometimes be a matter of days or weeks.  It’s better to bite the bullet & address things before you have a real problem on your hands. Here are some usual forms of damage done by ice dams. Ouch.

Learn more on ice dam prevention.

Ice Dams: Fact vs. Fiction

There is a lot of misinformation out there on the topic of ice dams. Our goal here is to be the single definitive source for all things relating to ice dams. Towards that end, here are some usual misconceptions approximately ice dams, roof snow, roof ice & gutter ice removal.

Fact: Ice dams can occur with virtually no snow on your roof. It’s a question of ice accumulations. It takes very little actual moisture to form ice dams. Even a dusting of snow can create a problem. Of course it is most often the case the thick snow accumulations create ice dams more quickly.

Fiction: Gutters have something to do with ice dams. The truth is gutters have nothing whatsoever to do with ice dams. If your home is prone to ice dams you will obtain them either way. If you have gutters they will fill with ice & provide a foundation for the ice dam above. If you don’t have gutters, the ice dam simply builds on the cold edge of the roof. We provide ice dam removal for many homes each year that do not have gutters.

Fact: Gutter systems can be damaged by gutter ice. We see it every year. A section of otherwise fine gutter is either on the ground or hanging pathetically off the edge of the roof, filled with ice. Fresh water ice weighs approximately 60 pounds per cubic foot & gutters are not designed to tolerate that sort of load. See photo of gutter ice damaged by an ice dam.It’s significant to initiate gutter ice removal sooner, then later.

Fiction: When it comes to insulation, the more the better. Improperly insulated homes are just as offensive as under insulated homes when it comes to ice dams. & roof ice We have fixed countless offensive insulation jobs for this reason. Specifically, we frequently find insulation done in such a way as to inhibit proper ventilation. Moreover, if you don’t address air leakage into the attic or rafter spaces, all the insulation in the world won’t prevent ice dams.

Fact: You can see ice dams from the ground. Not always. It’s true that you can usually spot a monster very easily. You can see the two foot icicles & the little glacier on your gutter.  The sneaky ones are usually above skylights or in roof pan areas far out of sight. Sometimes ice dams grow up valleys & on top of dormers making it almost impossible to identify from the ground.

Fiction: Salt socks are a smart way to address ice dams. People use pantyhose, old socks & store-bought cloth tubes filled with a variety of ice-melting compounds for removing ice dams. Corrosive substances like rock salt, sodium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride & more to melt channels through their ice dams. Some compounds are better than others, yet all present risks you should keep in mind.  Some of the aforementioned chemicals affect the integrity or color of your roof, some are corrosive to the aluminum when gutter ice is removed this way, some are corrosive to valley metal & other flashings, some damage plant life as the water drains below.  You are rolling the dice when you go this route so be aware.

Fact: Ice should be removed by steam. Here is the skinny. We are roofers & have fixed hundreds of roofs that have been damaged by well-intentioned professionals with hammers, picks & hatchets in their pursuit of removing ice dams to assist their clients.  The damage we have found caused by the less-than-professional souls is almost comical if it wasn’t so serious.  In our years we have seen jobs with picks & hammers where removing ice dams was done successfully.  It get’s down to a question of risk management.  We strongly advise against the hack-a-teer approach even if it is a little cheaper. Roof Ice & Gutter Ice should always be removed with rock salt or warm water.

Fiction: Ice dams need to be thick to cause a problem. Ice dams as thin as one inch can cause huge problems. A satisfactory general rule is that the steeper your roof, the thicker the ice dam has to be to cause problems. On lower pitched roofs even a thin ice dam can hurt.

Fact: The leaking caused by ice dams may not show up right away. It would be nice if water stains or mold manifested immediately upon entering your home yet it simply does not work that way.  Often the water that ice dams push into homes travels around wall & ceiling cavities, trapped by vapor barriers & other materials until it finds the path of least resistance to escape. By the time you see water inside, it’s usually been there for a while.

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How to Fix a Loose or Sagging Gutter

How to Fix a Loose or Sagging Gutter

If a gutter sags too much, it looks unsightly, & if the sag is in the wrong direction, water collects, giving mosquitoes a breeding ground & creating leaks. It’s standard to pitch gutters 1/16 inch per foot (2 mm per 30 cm) toward the nearest downspout, yet even a level gutter will drain. Assuming that the spikes, brackets or hangers are installed correctly, most commonly a gutter sags due to ice & snow damage or because a ladder has bent or dislodged its supports.

Instructions

If the gutter is supported by spikes (see A)

1. Straighten a bent spike by pushing up on the gutter at that location with a pry bar (you’ll likely need a ladder to reach it); or remove a nailed gutter spike for replacement by locking the head of the spike firmly in a pair of locking pliers, then tapping the side of the jaws with a hammer to pull the spike out.

2. Replace a spike that has fallen out or been removed with a threaded gutter spike. For a tighter fit, press a few wood slivers coated with exterior adhesive or epoxy into the nail hole first, this is for the do it your self. Although It is highly recommended that gutter with these types of hanging systems be rehung with reinforced inside hidden hangers with screw.

If the gutter is supported by hangers or brackets

1. Remove the gutter by unclipping the brackets & disconnecting it from the downspout(s). This is unquestionably a job for two or more people.

2. Replace the damaged bracket. Fill the old screw holes with caulk or exterior putty & let dry. Install the new bracket at approximately the same height & position as the old one. Repeat as needed for other brackets & tighten any loose screws before reinstalling the gutter.

If the gutter is supported by hangers or straps (see C)

1. If the strap is bent down, press down on it approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) up the roof from the edge of the shingle it lies under, or from the surface to which it’s nailed. Then pull up just below the point of the bend.

2. If the bracket has pulled out of the roof or needs replacing, & the roofing is asphalt shingles, disconnect the bracket from the gutter & carefully pry up the shingle to remove the nails (or screws), or drive new fasteners through the strap into the roof recommend screws.

If the gutter is supported by concealed brackets

1. Remove the mounting screw to replace a damaged bracket.

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Fixing Damaged Gutters

Rain gutters aren’t very exciting. You probably never even notice yours until something goes wrong with them. And then it’s the wrong kind of excitement.

Gutters & downspouts collect & carry away rainwater that would otherwise run off the roof, splash down & erode the soil & stain the siding. More important, gutters & downspouts form the first line of defense against a wet basement or crawl space: If you let water collect along the foundation, hydrostatic pressure will build, & water will eventually find its way inside the house. It’s equally significant to keep the ground around a hillside home dry.

For these reasons it’s significant that your gutters are in proper working order. Here, we’ll show you how to patch a hole, seal a leaky corner joint & secure a gutter that’s pulled away from the house. Fix these problems as shortly as they occur & your gutters will work more effectively & last many years longer.

Patching a hole

Gutters develop holes in a number of ways. Rust eats through steel gutters, & copper & aluminum versions are easily punctured by falling branches or sharp tools. Occasionally, you’ll find a hole that someone drilled through a gutter in an attempt to drain standing water. (If a gutter isn’t draining properly, it’s either not sloping toward the downspout or it’s sagging & needs to be raised.)

You have to patch any hole right away so it doesn’t grow larger. Buy a tube of gutter seal ($1.40) found at any local hardware store or contact us for a free quote. It’s significant that the seal is used. If you don’t you could encourage electrolytic corrosion—a process that slowly etches away one metal in favor of the other.

First, clean all debris from the gutter with a wide putty knife or plastic gutter scoop ($4). Wearing leather work gloves, scrub the area clean with a stiff-bristle wire brush. If there’s any rust around the hole, cut it out with aviation snips. Then run the seal down any open seams.

Fixing leaky joints

Over time, the joints between lengths of gutter can fail. And even seamless gutters aren’t immune to drips. They have seams where the gutters connect to preformed corners & to downspout outlets. Whether it’s a corner or straight joint, the repair is pretty much the same.

Curing sagging gutters

Most gutters are held in place with large spikes that pass through tubular sleeves, called ferrules. When a spike pulls free, a gutter can sag and, in some cases, come crashing down.

To repair a sagging gutter, you have to replace the spike with something that won’t withdraw easily, witch is the hang swift reinforced hidden hangers that gets screwed in contact us to have this performed.

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